Intro: This fly has been one of my most productive Redfish patterns.
It was inspired by a simple pattern I have seen years ago on a website that no longer exists. This was one of my first flies I have tied based on this pattern but over the years it took on a shape and life of it's own. Kind of like what is now with the new spin on the new Mustangs you see out on the road today; it has a hint of its heritage but reeks with refinement. You get my point?
In shallow or deep water, around oyster beds or up against Mangoves, this easy to tie pattern is one that will catch Redfish and does it where most flies won't!
MARKING-------------------Brown fine point Sharpie
*NOTE*
This pattern calls for beadchain eyes. You can use lead dumbell eyes for a much faster sink rate to get deeper into the water column.
Step-By-Step-Tying a "Whatchamacallit
1) Whip thread onto the hook shank until the thread is wound about half way to the hook point. Be sure to build a nice base of thread for the eye to set onto. Click images for better detail.
2) Place bead chain eyes onto the hook shank and secure using the figure eight method. Wind the thread all the back until it is just inside the hook bend as shown. Be careful of that hook point!
3) Cut a length of 30lb fluorocarbon about 6 inches long (so you have extra to tie a few of these). Melt the ends with a lighter and fold in half. Secure one end to each side of the hook as shown. Whip then cement the whole works, eyes and all, with Zap-A-Gap.
4) Cut a 6 inch clump of the Steve Farrar Redfish slinky fiber. Whip onto hook at the center as shown. Tie in two strands of Copper flash, whip onto hook, fold the whole works over, whip then add a little cement to secure.
5) Tie in a length of Opal/Olive Estaz all the way at the rear of the hook as shown. Wind the thread all the way back to the eye of the hook. It's not a bad idea to add a drop of cement to the works to make your fly even stronger. You never can really over build a fly.
6) Palmer estaz forward evenly with one wrap as tight as possible to the previous wrap. It is very important to remember to fold the mylar fibers back like you are palmering a hackle onto a wet fly. This will help give the fly a more fuller, uniform apparence. Be sure to figure eight over the eyes then stop the estaz just behind the hook eye. Whip with thread then cut off excess estaz.
7) Fold the loop of fluorocarbon over the top of the fly, hook point up. Form two even loops on each side of the hook point. Make sure each loop is just above the hook point to ensure the fly stays weedless. Whip with a good amount of thread. Take a sharp razor blade and carefully trim the excess fluorocarbon from the hook. Whip finish and cement with Zap-A-Gap.
8) Remove from vice once cement is fully cured. Place the fly flat on a piece of cardboard. Take a brown Sharpie and gently make vertical bars, even spaced on the tail of the fly. If you goof up? Take a paper towel and soak with rubbing alcohol, then gently wipe away your mistake. Let dry then start over again with the marker.
